Yes. Preheating is necessary for baking. Turn the oven knob to the desired temperature and allow 10-15 minutes for oven to preheat. Selecting a higher temperature will not shorten the preheat time and may affect baking results.

Allow the range surface to cool and wear rubber gloves when cleaning the range. Clean all surfaces as soon as possible after spills or boilovers. Use warm,soapy water only to clean the burner grates, cooktops, painted surfaces, porcelain surfaces, stainless steel surfaces and plastic items. Do not use grit or acid-type cleaners. Do not use steel wool or abrasive cleaners. They will damage the oven finish. Use only non-abrasive plastic scrubbing pads. Do not wash warm porcelain surfaces.

Yes. Contact your nearest dealer, service center or parts supplier to order a large 2-piece broiler pan, Part No. 520805. Porcelain surfaces in broiler pan are smooth and rounded for easy clean up.

Yes. To remove the wire grate and main top for cleaning:

• Remove the wire grate by raising straight up. Use caution not to dislodge the grommets in the top (one at each corner).
• Grasp top in the center and raise front up approximately 3". If your unit has sealed burners, disconnect the piezo wire at each burner.
• Slide top forward off the two spring clips at rear of top. Lift up top.

To Reinstall:

• Reconnect piezo wires to each burner if they were removed.
• Align slots in rear flange of top with the tabs on the spring clips. Push top in and press front of top down until the spring clip snaps into place.
• Reinstall wire grate by aligning the four (4) legs on the wire grate with the four (4) grommets int he top. Press wire grate down into each grommet, being careful not to dislodge the grommets.

Your RV range features one rack with a choice of two or three rack positions, depending on the model and size. The oven rack is designed with a safety lock stop position to keep the rack from accidentally coming loose when pulling the rack out to add or remove food. The rack also features two tabs to keep the rack from rattling during travel. To remove the rack be sure it is cool and clear of pans. Pull the rack straight out until it stops. Lift the front end of the rack up, then pull and remove from the oven. To replace, place the rack in the oven on top of the rack supports, and slide the rack to the stop position. Lift upward and slide the rack past the stop position. Lift upward and slide the rack past the stop position. Then lower the rack as you are pushing it back toward the rear of the range. The two tabs on the rack will anchor it in place and prevent it from rattling during transport.

Yes. Protect the oven bottom against excessive spillovers as they may discolor the porcelain. Use the correct size cooking utensil to avoid boilovers. Never place utensils or aluminum foil directly on the oven rack or bottom.

To remove when cool:

• Remove the one (1) screw and nut that secures the oven burner assembly to the oven bottom. Remove the four (4) screws that secure oven bottom to the oven sides and back. Hold oven bottom and slide it out of the oven.

To Replace:

• Position oven bottom rear flange to align with the two holes in back of the oven. Secure with (2) screws. Secure oven bottom to oven sides with the two (2) screws. Secure oven burner assembly to oven bottom with screw and nut.

The model and serial numbers are located on the UL label under the main top. This information will be needed when servicing or ordering parts.

60,000 BTU/h

USING ON/OFF SWITCH
If using an ON/Off switch, you can only choose between the following temperature settings 108°F, 120°F, 125°F and 130°F.  These temperatures can be achieved by changing the dip switch positions on the main module board.

USING ON DEMAND CONTROL CENTER
If using the Optional On-Demand Control Center, you can increase or decrease the temperature in one-degree increments from 95°F-130°F.

Yes. When replacing any pre-installed Suburban RV water heater, a replacement panel must be purchased to replace the existing exterior door along with a vent cap assembly.

Yes. When replacing any pre-installed Atwood style RV water heater, a replacement panel must be purchased to replace the existing exterior door along with a vent cap assembly.

If you are replacing an existing water heater you must use a Replacement Panel to cover the existing hole on the side of your camper.

For replacing existing Suburban RV water heater, we offer two color choices Black and Polar White.

For replacing existing Atwood style water heater, Polar White is the only color offered for replacement panels.

Yes, the Suburban IW60 has two ways of protecting it from freezing:

Mechanical:  Freeze Protection Valve which has a thermo-plastic valve that reacts to cold water and starts to shrink at 39° F allowing the movement of water out the drain.

Electrical:  The electrical freeze protection is the Module Board.  With both gas and electric turned on, the board will receive a temperature reading from the inlet temperature sensor and will automatically turn on the unit when it recognizes 39° F. If the RV is to be stored for the winter, the Suburban IW60 should be drained of all water.

Yes, you can use your existing On/Off switch or upgrade to the On Demand Control Center that can provide precise temperature control with reliable and consistent comfort from the convenience of your RV.

White and Black

No, the Suburban IW60 uses LP gas for heating and 12 VDC for component operation.

Yes, once drained, RV NON-TOXIC antifreeze can be added if recommended by your coach manufacturer.

No, the Nautilus (IW60) does not use any type of Anode Rod.

Each year drain the water from the system and flush the heat exchanger with an approved descaling solution and use of our kit 521163.  Contact your local RV service center for assistance.

Suburban offers a two (2) year limited factory warranty that covers both parts and labor.

Suburban's line of water heaters offers many choices, including high recovery gas, gas-electric and motor aid models with sizes and features to match the requirements of virtually any RV. There are a number of reasons, longer tank life, a 3-year tank limited warranty, anode rod protection, porcelain lining and efficient copolymer insulation jacket. There are 4-, 6-, 10-, 12- and 16-gallon models, standard gas, gas-electric combinations and a motor aid heat exchanger to utilize engine heat on motor homes. Also available are flush mount and standard mount doors.

Yes, when taking advantage of available campsite or generator-produced electricity you may operate on both gas and electric for a faster recovery rate.

Yes. First check your model size (whether you are operating a 6-gallon or 10-gallon tank) and the sidewall cut-out and depth dimensions. For 6-gallon models you can purchase Suburban's part number 520787 6-gallon aluminum tank water heater replacement kit. This kit includes a standard mount door frame, two flanges to trim out the side wall opening, and a Colonial white door with hinge. This door covers the trim flanges to give a factory installed appearance. Ten gallon models do not require a kit.

Only Suburban water heaters feature an anode rod. The anode equalizes aggressive water action, providing cathodic protection for the tank. It is a very important factor in tank life and should only be removed for inspection, draining or replacement. It is removeable using a 1-1/16" thin wall socket.

All Suburban water heaters are protected by a magnesium or aluminum anode to prolong the life of the tank. Under normal use, the anode rod will deteriorate. Because of this, we recommend it be replaced annually or when consumption or weight loss of the rod is greater than 75%. Note: Water with high levels of iron and/or sulfate will increase the rate of deterioration. To extend anode life, drain water from tank whenever the RV is not being used. Avoid any extended time of non-use with water in the tank.

You may experience water weeping or dripping from your water heater's pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve when your water heater is operating. Water weeping or dripping does not mean that the P&T valve is defective. As water is heated, it expands. The water system in a recreational vehicle is a closed system and does not allow for the expansion of heated water. When the pressure of the water system exceeds the relieving point of the P&T valve, the valve will relieve the excess pressure.

One way to reduce the frequency of this occurrence is to maintain an air pocket at the top of the water heater tank. This air pocket will form in the tank by design - however, it will be reduced over time by the everyday use of your water heater. To replenish this air pocket:

1. Turn off the water heater.
2. Turn off the cold water supply line.
3. Open a faucet in the RV.
4. Pull out the handle of the pressure relief (P&T) valve and allow water to flow from the valve until it stops.
5. Release the handle on the P&T valve - it should snap closed.
6. Close the faucet and turn on the cold water supply. As the tank fills, the air pocket will develop. Repeat this procedure as often as needed to reduce the frequency of the weeping P&T valve. If the weeping persists after following this procedure, you may elect to have your dealer install an expansion or accumulator tank in the cold water line between the tank and check valve to relieve the pressure caused by thermal expansion.

Any alterations to a Suburban water heater will void its warranty. This includes add-on electric aftermarket heating elements. There are a number of heating elements being offered. These elements are supplied with different types of thermostats which are mounted in various locations of the water heater. These heating elements can lack critical safety controls. Use of these devices can lead to an out of control heating of the water tank and a catastrophic wet side explosion. The use of these aftermarket heating element devices may result in damage to components or the water heater. When aftermarket heating elements are inserted into the anode rod/drain connection, tank life is shortened by accelerating inner tank corrosion. This will be a non-warrantable situation.

Odor from the hot water system is not a service problem and many water supplies contain sufficient amounts of sulphur to produce an odor. The odor is similar to rotten eggs and is often referred to as "sulphur water." Sulphur water is not harmful - only unpleasant to smell. Sulphur water can be caused by a chemical action or by bacteria. The key to eliminating this smell is heavy chlorination of the water system. Add about six (6) ounces of chlorine (common household liquid bleach) to each 10 gallons in the water tank. Then run the heavily chlorinated water throughout the system, opening each faucet one at a time until you smell the chlorine. Let the RV sit a few days and the chlorine should take care of the problem. Then you will need to take care of the chlorine by flushing the water system. If you don't have a water filtration system that removes chlorine, you may have a problem getting rid of the chlorine taste. You might consider adding such a system because it allows you to keep water chlorinated and this prevents several problems, including sulphur water. Chlorination also takes care of other types of bacteria and viruses.

If the RV is to be stored during winter months, the water heater must be drained to prevent damage from freezing:

1. Turn off electrical power to the water heater either at the switch from the electric element or a breaker.
2. Shut off the gas supply to the water heater.
3. Turn off the pressure pump on the water system.
4. Open both hot and cold water faucets.
5. Remove the anode rod from the tank.
6. Follow the RV manufacturer's instructions for draining the entire water system.

If your water heater plumbing system is equipped with a bypass kit, use it to close off the water heater. Drain the water heater completely and leave it closed off (out of the system) in the bypass position, particularly if you are introducing antifreeze into the plumbing system. Antifreeze can be very corrosive to the anode rod. The result will be accelerated deterioration of the rod and heavy sediment in the tank. If the plumbing system is not equipped with a bypass kit and you intend to winterize by adding antifreeze into the system, remove the anode rod (storing it for the winter) and replace it with a 3/4" drain plug.

You can contact Suburban via written correspondence, phone, e-mail with your model and serial number of the appliance. The Manual can be e-mailed as a PDF file or mailed out in printed form.

Operation without water in the tank on the 12 VDC gas portion of the water heater can cause the copolymer insulation jacket to melt and can cause the ECO/Thermostat to trip.
Opertion without water in the tank on the 120 VAC electric portion of the water heater will damage the element.

Yes, if you have the additional space at the back of your current 10 gallon unit to accomodate the dpth of the 12 or 16 gallon unit. A 12 gallon unit requires 1 3/4" additional space and a 16 gallon unit will require 6 1/2" additional space.

No. Never attempt repairs yourself. The unit must be serviced by a qualified installer, service agency or gas supplier. Improper installation, adjustment, alteration, service or maintenance can cause property damage, personal injury or loss of life.

First, if your RV has its original furnace and is still under the RV manufacturer's warranty, follow the steps described in your RV owners manual. Second, contact a conveniently located Suburban Recommended Service Center. A list of such service centers is located in this section of the web site. Describe to them the nature of your problem and make an appointment to have the problem corrected. Third, you and the service center can contact Suburban's Customer Service Department at P.O. Box 399, Dayton, Tenn., 37321, or call us at 423-775-2131 if more assistance is needed.

Genuine Suburban replacement parts are available from Suburban service centers. If the service agency does not have the merchandise you need in stock, they can order for you. If there is no Recommended Service Center in your area, you may contact any local RV dealer or service agency for assistance. Suburban sells through most RV wholesalers, so the local agency should be able to order parts for you through their normal source.

Use of generic replacement parts is not recommended or approved by Suburban. Our first concern is your safety. Second is our concern over product performance and customer satisfaction. When you install a non-Suburban part, we can guarantee neither. Be aware that use of non-Suburban parts will void the warranty and you will assume liability consequences. It also violates the intent of the UL, CUL, AGA or CGA certifications.

No. Suburban does not feel this is a safe practice. Some states have laws forbidding the use of propane while driving. You should be sure all gas appliances are off and their ignition systems are off while the vehicle is in motion or being towed.

No. Suburban does not approve - nor do we recommend - using the aftermarket screens being sold to cover the outside vent cap. This restricts the exhaust and intake air, resulting in improper burner operation and a potentially unsafe condition.

Check your furnace data plate for BTUH input. The replacement should be the same BTUH size or a close equivalent. Do not oversize your furnace. Too much heating capacity leads to rapid cycling and reduced comfort levels. If you do choose a larger BTUH furnace, your installer must make sure the installation requirements meet or exceed Suburban's installation requirements for ducting, return air, clearances and gas pipe size.

Yes. We recommend an annual inspection by a qualified service technician. Also, you as the owner/user should inspect the furnace monthly during the heating season for the presence of soot on the vent. Operating the furnace in this condition could lead to serious property damage, personal injury or loss of life. If soot is observed on the vent, immediately shut down the furnace and contact a qualified service agency.

No, this is not recommended. Doing so will cause improper furnace operation and possible overheating of the furnace.

Conditions that can affect the performance of your furnace can include:

• Low gas pressure caused by a number of factors, including a malfunctioning regulator or low gas levels in the tank. This can only be tested by a qualified service technician.
• Low voltage, which again can only be checked by a certified service technician.
• Inadequate ducting. Have your dealer make sure the furnace has at least the minimum number of ducts and required duct area (min. sq. inches), excluding closeable outlets. Check for proper duct connections at the furnace or collapsed ducts. Make sure ducts are clean and clear of obstructions, and are as straight and tight as possible.
• Restricted or insufficient air return: the return air passage should meet the minimum open square inches as specified for the particular model of furnace installed. It must not be blocked or restricted. Keep the furnace compartment clea of any materials that can block the air flow around the furnace.
• Unauthorized alterations and improper reinstallations.
• Failure to adhere to the preventative maintenance measures outlined in the users manual.

Your furnace is in lock-out or the limit switch has opened and not reset. Lock-out occurs when a problem exists during the trial for ignition. Your dealer or a Suburban service center should be consulted to diagnose this condition.